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Social occasions needed to be postponed in favor of extra urgent work and the need to mourn the growing numbers of lifeless, visits to the wounded, and the final gravity of the time meant that darker colours became the norm. A new monochrome look emerged that was unfamiliar to younger ladies in comfortable circumstances. By 1915 modern Fashion & Online Shop news skirts had risen above the ankle and, by 1920, to mid-calf. The Venice-based designer Mariano Fortuny y Madrazo, was a curious figure, with very few parallels in any age. For his dress designs he conceived a particular pleating process and new dyeing strategies. He gave the name Delphos to his lengthy clinging sheath clothes that undulated with colour.